Best Leather Hole Punch Set
Punches make holes for hardware, not stitches, so pick the type that matches the rivets, snaps, and buckles you actually use.
Quick answer
The best leather hole punch set for a beginner is a revolving (rotary) punch with 2-4.5 mm tubes for everyday rivet and snap holes, backed up by a few individual drive punches for larger or edge-of-panel holes a rotary can't reach. Add an oblong (slot) punch once you set buckles or lace. Buy sharp, hardened tubes and always punch onto poly board.
A leather hole punch cuts round or slotted holes for hardware: rivets, snaps, Chicago screws, buckle tongues, conchos, and lacing. It does not make stitching holes. Saddle-stitch holes come from pricking irons or diamond chisels instead, so if you are here to lay out thread spacing, start with our guide to pricking irons for beginners and the pricking irons vs. stitching chisels comparison. Mixing the two up is the single most common beginner mistake.
Once that is clear, choosing a punch set is mostly about three formats and a handful of sizes. Here is what each does, what sizes to buy first, and how to keep the cutting edges alive.
Rotary vs. drive vs. oblong: what each punch is for
A revolving (rotary) punch is the plier-style tool with a rotating turret of tubes, usually six sizes from about 2 mm to 4.5 mm. It is fast, self-backing, and perfect for belts, straps, and small goods where the hole sits within reach of the jaw (roughly 1-1.5 in / 25-38 mm from the edge).
Individual drive punches are single tubes you strike with a mallet. They handle any hole size, reach the middle of a large panel, and come in bigger diameters than a rotary turret offers. The trade-off is that you need a mallet and a cutting surface, and each size is a separate tool.
Oblong (slot) punches cut a rounded rectangle instead of a circle. You need them for buckle tongues, adjustable straps, and flat lacing. A single hole leather punch in slot form is the tool people forget to buy until their first belt buckle will not sit flat.
Leather punch sizes and what each one is for
Leather punch sizes are usually given in millimeters, and hardware is what dictates them. A quick starter map:
- 2-2.5 mm: lacing holes, small spots, keeper tacks.
- 3 mm: the workhorse for most small rivets and the tongue side of light snaps.
- 3.5-4 mm: common rivet caps, medium snaps, Chicago screws.
- 4.5-5 mm and up: larger rivets, jean buttons, some conchos.
Always match the punch to the hardware, not the other way around, and test on scrap first. A hole 0.5 mm too big lets a rivet spin; too small and the post will not seat. If you are new to reading material thickness alongside hole size, our leather thickness converter helps you translate oz to mm so hardware length and hole size line up.
The cutting surface matters as much as the punch
Never punch onto stone, steel, or a bare bench. Both drive punches and struck oblong punches need a poly cutting board (often called poundo or poundboard) under the leather. The soft plastic lets the tube pass fully through the leather and stop, taking the edge instead of chipping it against something hard.
A cheap kitchen HDPE cutting board works to start. Rotate and flip it as it develops craters so you are always cutting on a fresh patch. For rotary punches you do not need a board, but you do need the anvil disc on the jaw to be intact and lined up with the tube.
Keeping the edges sharp
A punch is only as good as its edge, and dull tubes tear leather instead of shearing it. Signs of a dull punch: ragged holes, a plug that will not pop out, or a tube that needs several hard strikes.
To keep edges alive: always cut onto poly, never through the leather into anything hard, and keep the tubes dry so they do not rust. When a hole starts to fray, touch up the inside bevel with a tapered diamond needle file or run a round of fine sandpaper wrapped on a dowel through the tube. Hardened tools hold an edge far longer than cheap chrome-plated ones, which is the main reason to spend a little more on a starter set.
What to buy first as a beginner
For most people starting out, one good revolving punch covers 80% of jobs on day one. Add drive punches in the two or three sizes your hardware actually uses, plus a single oblong punch sized for your buckle tongues once you start on belts.
You do not need a 20-piece drive set with sizes you will never touch. Buy the format that fits your projects, and let the hardware you keep reaching for tell you which sizes to add. If you are still mapping out a first build and its materials, the leather project calculator helps you plan panels, and leather hide cuts explained covers where firm, punchable leather comes from.
Rotary vs. drive vs. oblong punches
| Type | Typical use | Size range | Ease of use | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Revolving (rotary) | Round holes near an edge | About 2-4.5 mm, 6 tubes | Easiest, no mallet or board | Belts, straps, snaps, everyday rivets |
| Individual drive | Round holes anywhere, any size | 2 mm to 25 mm+, per tube | Needs mallet and poly board | Large holes, panel centers, big hardware |
| Oblong (slot) | Rounded rectangular slots | Sold by slot length, e.g. 1/8-1 in | Struck like a drive punch | Buckle tongues, adjustable straps, lacing |
Punches that cut clean
-
Rotary Leather Hole Punch (6 sizes)
- Size
- 2/2.5/3/3.5/4/4.5 mm wheel
- Blade
- carbon steel
- Level
- Beginner
Revolving punch for round holes in belts and straps. Fine for hardware holes; not for stitching.
Reviewed 2026-06-30 -
Drive Punch Set (round, 9 pieces)
- Size
- 1.5–10 mm round drive punches
- Blade
- carbon steel
- Level
- Beginner
Struck round punches for clean holes on a poundboard. The versatile choice for rivets, snaps and Chicago screws.
Reviewed 2026-06-30 -
Oblong / Bag Punch Set (slot punches)
- Size
- slot sizes for straps & buckles
- Blade
- carbon steel
- Level
- Intermediate
Slot punches for buckle tongues and strap keepers. A useful add-on once you make belts.
Reviewed 2026-06-30
Key takeaways
- Hole punches are for hardware (rivets, snaps, buckles, lacing), never for stitching holes.
- Start with a revolving punch, add a few drive punches for size and reach, and one oblong for buckles.
- Always punch onto a poly board and match the hole size to your hardware, not by eye.
- Hardened, sharp tubes and a fresh cutting surface are what keep holes clean over time.
Frequently asked questions
Can I use a leather hole punch for stitching holes?
No. Hole punches make round or slotted holes for hardware like rivets, snaps, and buckles. Stitching holes are made with pricking irons or diamond chisels, which create angled slits spaced for thread. See our pricking irons vs. stitching chisels comparison to pick the right stitching tool.
What leather punch sizes should a beginner buy first?
Start with 3 mm and 4 mm, since those cover most common small rivets, snaps, and Chicago screws. A revolving punch gives you roughly 2-4.5 mm in one tool. Add larger drive punches and an oblong slot punch only when specific hardware or a buckle demands them.
What is an oblong leather punch used for?
An oblong (slot) punch cuts a rounded rectangular hole instead of a circle. You need it for buckle tongues so the strap sits flat, for adjustable straps, and for flat lacing. Slot punches are sized by the slot length, so match it to the tongue or lace width you are using.
Do I need a special surface to punch leather?
Yes, for any struck punch. Drive and oblong punches need a poly cutting board (poundboard) underneath so the tube passes fully through the leather and stops in soft plastic instead of chipping on something hard. Revolving punches are self-backing and do not need a board.
Why does my hole punch tear the leather instead of cutting it?
That is almost always a dull edge or a hard cutting surface. Make sure you are punching onto fresh poly, not stone or steel, and touch up the inside bevel of the tube with a fine file or sandpaper on a dowel. Cheap chrome-plated punches dull fast, so hardened tubes are worth it.
Rotary punch or individual drive punches for beginners?
A revolving (rotary) punch is the easier, faster starting point and handles most edge-of-strap holes with no mallet. Add individual drive punches when you need larger sizes or holes in the middle of a panel the rotary jaw cannot reach. Most beginners end up owning both.
Last verified 2026-07-14.